A Summer Day in Kristiansand

Our Friday stop in Kristiansand seemed as much a delay in our steady march to Oslo as a necessary port of call on our tour. The city once was known for its pollution, but today has cleaned itself up and appears like nothing so much as a Norwegian version of Newport, RI or Nantucket. It is southerly enough that nice weather enhances its seaside ambiance. Its fishmarket is larger and more impressive than Bergen's.

Alan and I had signed up for our second and last organized tour off the boat, following the success of our kayaking adventure in Geiranger. We were given group stickers on the ship and then followed directions to a series of motorcoaches that would take us on our "typical Norwegian forest walk." While it was a pleasant stroll through a lovely park dating to the 1800's, this excursion reinforced my conviction that I'm not cut out for these large-scale organized explorations.

I got off the coach on the way back into town rather than go back to the ship and spent the rest of our time in town wandering around. I finished up back in the port/harbor area where my guidebook promised a lovely waterside bistro that served the best fish soup in Kristiansand. I was not disappointed. I sat on the deck in the wonderful warm sun and enjoyed a light but creamy collection of perfectly cooked salmon and whitefish, small shrimp, a few small mussels and clams, topped with an herbal garnish. The place was full of Norwegians who seemed to have taken off the day to enjoy the sun after so much bleak, cloudy and rainy weather. Across the small waterway were scores of other similarly laid back folks. Many were on board small pleasure craft while others just sprawled or lolled on the steps enjoying the afternoon. I wandered through the fish market and then joined the crowds across the way. Before heading back to the ship I indulged in another insanely rich cone of soft ice cream that tastes like real ice cream, coated with cocoa powder. Probably enough calories to power a small city, and enough milk fat to spike my cholesterol big time, but one of the best ice cream cones I've ever had.